While the front pages of newspapers feature Muslim women in flowing black abayas, burqas, and chadors, the often thrown-aside life and style sections are offering a very different picture of Muslim women: stylish! “Hijabistas,” trendy up-and-coming Muslim designers (predominantly from the U.K.), and fashion-forward hijabis are appearing on the covers of fashion and entertainment sections in newspapers across the world.
Designer Hana Tajima (right) and model. Image via Susannah Ireland for The Independent.
These “hijabistas” are wearing and designing clothes to reflect “Western fashion” reconciled with a “Muslim dress code,” according to British media outlets BBC and The Independent.
Following this trend of covering “hijabistas,” the Los Angeles Times recently ran a piece on the trend of stylish, hijab-friendly clothing worn by American Muslim women, and the recent emergence of blogs, magazines, and online boutiques that cater to fashion-forward American Muslim women. The article calls on Sama Wareh, a stylish Muslim woman; Tayyibah Taylor, editor in chief of Azizah Magazine; and Jokima Hamidullah, founder of We Love Hijab, to explain this fascination with Muslim fashion that has now captured the attention of newspapers.
Tayyibah explains, “In America, we have a microcosm of the Muslim world. There are 80 different ethnicities. It’s a cultural and spiritual buffet table. American Muslims pick and choose and create their own. Establishing hijab, as both fashion and spiritual, is part of that as well. These young bloggers and the new magazines are part of the building of a cultural architecture, and what is being created is distinctly Muslim American.”
Is this why newspapers seem to be obsessed with reporting on hijab fashion: to contribute to the creation of a distinct Muslim American—or, in the case of BBC and The Independent, a distinct British Muslim identity? While I am glad to see a focus on hijab that is not as “othering” as the typically marginalizing coverage, this seemingly benign widespread news trend still echoes previous discourse surrounding the hijab. The similarities are subtle, but nonetheless they are present.
Sama Wareh. Image via Christina House / For The Time.
Each article assumes that “Western” fashion or concepts are, at the least, very difficult to reconcile with Islamic standards. The articles take on an astonished tone as they explain “just how” these Muslim women are reconciling their different identities. The Los Angeles Times article even points out to readers that Sama’s “…personal sense of style is so unique that she’s been asked by non-Muslims if what she’s wearing ‘is allowed.’”
These fashionable women are presented as liberated, autonomous, and modern Muslim women of the “Western world.” A dichotomy is created between these stylish ladies and the “un-modernized” Muslim women who wear niqabs or drab-colored clothing often compared to tents or shrouds.
The “hijabista” coverage is located within an existing discourse about the “veil” that posits this piece of fabric an affirmation or rejection of Islamic principles, instead of being taken as an individual’s expression of her personal choice. For example, the BBC poses the contextualized question, “But doesn’t the showy nature of fashion contradict the essence of Hijab?” This question is similar to the question of whether personal style is “allowed.”
There’s also the issue of Western-ness (which is presented in conjunction with modernity). The Independent touts “hijabistas” in the U.K. as those whose presence reflects the shift of British Muslims toward “the mainstream” and “forging their own indigenous identity.” Why is it that the presence of Muslim women creating hijab-friendly fashion seen as a movement toward the “mainstream” or “forging their own indigenous identity,” while a British Muslim woman’s decision to wear the niqab (face veil) seen as a security risk, a rise in fundamentalism, or a blow to British values?
This sort of ostensibly well-intended coverage seems to be one step forward for Muslim women and two steps back. Media outlets and newspapers ensure that we are merely speaking and acting from within an existing discourse, so that something benign and lighthearted like fashion becomes a symbol of something much larger.
For now, I will stick to media outlets created by Muslim women to follow the trend on hijab-friendly fashion. These women can speak from a new, unoccupied space, where questions are not riddled with assumptions and answers aren’t affirmations.
TweetTags: hijab style, hijabista
It seems like Muslimah Media Watch is never satisfied – maybe it just doesn’t go that deep?
Diana,
Thanks for writing this. As a hijab blogger and one of those mentioned in the BBC article you linked to and many others; dealing with the media can be a bit frustrating. Somehow our words are always distorted (and sometimes simply even made up) to fit the sensationalist agenda of the article. But I guess that happens with most things Muslim-woman related anyway.
One of the main problems I think is that even though there is all this media coverage, underneath it all is still the assumption that an all-encompassing black robe is “authentic Islamic dress” whereas we ‘modern stylish hijabis’ are somehow promoting a fake, watered down version in the name of ‘integration’ and ‘fitting in’. Hence why niqabs, burkas, etc. are still seen as threats of ‘Islamism’ and in need of banning.
The same can be said of certain Muslim magazines and websites which irresponsibly also add to this supposed dichotomy between the pious, abaya-and-niqab wearing Muslimah and her less religiously inclined tunic-and-jeans couterpart. It’s sickening yet constantly certain members of the Muslim community will brandish any Muslimah who doesn’t dress in their ‘uniform’ as being ignorant of ‘true’ Islamic teachings regards dress, of being materialistic, and only caring about the ‘dunya’, etc. When Muslims themselves are spreading these ideas, is it then really any surprise that the media is too?
The idea a lot of us are trying to get across is simple; that hijab and Islamic dress are timeless and are not restricted to one culture or one prescribed style.
The only hijab article I ever felt 100% comfortable with was the one I wrote for the Guardian myself; and that’s probably why. No sensationalism, no lazy journalists with cheap headlines.
On the blog I also make an effort to stay away from both the politics of hijab and self-righteous preaching; at the end of day we already get enough from outside the community and within it.
P.s. I really cannot stand the word ‘hijabistas’…who calls themselves that anyway?
Women are more affected by prevailing fashions and the subtle colonialism that drives them.
Hijabi fashionistas is even a Facebook group, and let’s be real – it’s about having your hand in both pies. Looking chic and sexy enough to catch a man’s eyes and feel pretty, and still looking hijabi enough to give the outward conformity to the shariah.
very good analysis. Also, these media outlets didnt bother to talk about the similarities with “hijabista” trends in Iran, Turkey, Malaysia, South Africa, and other non-Western nations. I would argue that women in these nations were, in fact, a huge influence on “Western Hijabista” fashion.
@ Majid: I think there are some serious issues with your assumptions related to why women dress the way they do. Assuming that the only reason women get dressed every day is to “catch a man’s eyes and feel pretty?” Really?!
@ Jasmine. “It seems like Muslimah Media Watch is never satisfied.”
Bingo. Until sexism is eradicated from media representations of Muslim women, we won’t be satisfied! But seriously, I hope you realize that the aim of the website does not set us up for just being happy with media coverage that isn’t good enough.
@jasmine…critical writing is a process of thoughtful analysis of media and other sources that identifies both the positive and negative aspects of a given issue. See above for a good example of this type of writing.
@Diana…Excellent post, It is frustrating to be categorized by media in this way. It’s like saying, oh look, the little muslim girls are being enlightened by our incredibly great taste and sense of style.
Ummmm….a lot of fashion houses these days only exist becuase of the patronship of fashionable arab women (who incidentally wear abayas). And some of the most creative and beautiful clothing styles and traditions originate in Pakistan, a muslim country, where muslim women have loved their pretty and colourful garments for centuries before they came to Europe or North America.
The article makes some really great points, but I feel it stops a little short. Or perhaps additional analysis on what “Islamic fashion” actually even means was not the intent. The term is problematic as the Qur’an does not have a fashion section nor does it explain what it means by modest clothing. Modest clothing has been determined by culture, not Islam.
@Jana:
“The same can be said of certain Muslim magazines and websites which irresponsibly also add to this supposed dichotomy between the pious, abaya-and-niqab wearing Muslimah and her less religiously inclined tunic-and-jeans couterpart.”
Dichotomy? What about the Muslim women who don’t fit into either of these categories? Are they not a part of the discussion or community? It is not only those who push the abaya and niqab who are exclusionary. Those in jeans and tunic look down upon those who wear short skirts or tanks tops. In your comment you’re doing the same thing to those Muslim women that you complain others do to you.
I think we need to move past this discussion and get into a discussion of what “modest” actually means, and who is determining this for us. And why is that we seem to adhere to one definition of modest when there are as many definitions are there are cultures? We follow only one culture’s definition.
Sobia,
I disagree. The Quran quite clearly defines what modesty should be; most cultures will work around that same framework. I don’t see us following one culture’s definition at all. Muslim women around the world dress incredibly differently, yet still modestly.
And I was referring to a very specific case in point, since we’re obviously discussing hijab, i.e. in the media and amongst the community, there is a trend to polarise between the conservative, “proper” hijab and everything-else hijab, as if it is by definition what hijab ’should’ be. Different definitions and practices of modesty all have a part in the discussion, but I cannot speak for those who don’t wear hijab.
Unlike where you’ve suddenly jumped to false conclusions about my opinions regards women who don’t wear it; why complain that Muslim women get spoken for, not to, when you do exactly the same yourself?
@Jasmine:
I understand your sentiment. Maybe it does not go that deep, but we challenge ourselves to think of things from different perspectives.
@Jana:
If I start to really sit and think about things I get so worn out. It is all too much and like I mention in this post, it feels as though anything we (we meaning Muslim women) say is already inserted into the dominant discourse so that everything is automatically categorized.
Even speaking out is silencing sometimes because our words enter into a predetermined space and they are manipulated…So exhausting!
And to think, the worst of it seems to be perpetuated from within our own community.
@ Majid:
I find your explanation of the trend so oversimplified: “Looking chic and sexy enough to catch a man’s eyes and feel pretty…”
You assume feeling pretty or having self esteem only comes as a result of a man’s attention?
@ Jana & Sobia: I think we can all agree that The Great Hijab Debate is not what we want here. Let’s just agree to keep it at the representations of hijabs in the article, mmmmkay?
Salam,
hi all i disagree with this statement :
“Looking chic and sexy enough to catch a man’s eyes and feel pretty…”
well where ever u are what ever clothes u wear it will “catch” by someone else eyes, and i believe if u were covered with abaya/niqab/burka etc it doesnt mean a man cannot put his dirty mind of you, believe me i have lotta male friend whom like imagine what is inside it.
so dont bother others by what the proper wear or sumthin, get back with your life and respect other people choise (wearing fashion clotes,wearing burka/niqab,etc)
Islam love peace and respect,
at least that’s what i learn since i was born.
Salam.
[...] But the Internet is making accessible such folks as the knowledgeable Juan Cole. Also the ladies of Muslimah Media Watch where, on the subject of far-right politicians’ thinly veiled obsession with defining how Muslim women should dress, see here and here. [...]
lol. didnt take long for an argument to start, did it?
we never agree about what is hijab and we never will. its human nature to stick to your guns about your own personal interpretation and outlook on things – just like any form of media does.
and at the end of the day – who really gives a crap about what some media (whether muslim or western based) thinks – especially when most of the time these things are written based on one person’s personal perceptions and not the whole reality?
the media does this with all types of people – not just hijabies. im just happy we are getting presented to the mainstream audience in a way that doesnt have the word “terrorist” or “bomb” associated with it. its nice to see a controversy free article about muslims amongst the usual anti-islamic trash that gets written about islam and its followers.
EDITOR’S NOTE: This is the NOT the place for The Great Hijab Debate. Comments that do not stick to addressing the media representation of hijab in the article will not be approved.
@ Ange:
Frankly, I give a “crap” about what media thinks :D I do not give a “crap”because I believe that media is something other than “written based on one person’s personal perceptions and not the whole reality?” But I give a “crap” because it shapes the dominant discourse and it shapes people’s perception.
Muslim women, and as you mentioned, many other people, are then inserted into this discourse and our identity [what other people identify us as] is predetermined by people’s perception.
Idk about you, but I definitely give a crap when I start to feel as though I am not autonomous, because other people have already spoken for me, especially when Muslim women have the wherewithal and intelligence and, as you see here, the space to speak for themselves :)
And while I do agree that I am, “happy we are getting presented to the mainstream audience in a way that doesn’t have the word “terrorist” or “bomb” associated with it,” I find it so ironic that we can say this about current media representation of hijab and yet some Muslimahs/Muslims will not sit there and see Rima Fakih’s winning of the Miss USA title as invoking an ounce of the same kind of happiness?
So yea, it is all a little biased and all a little tiring and all a little stale, but at the end of the day, we really do [have to] give a crap, because this is our representation/face/story and if we don’t care enough to write/rewrite/challenge it then we might as well be invisible :)
As a hijab fashion blogger myself, I actually get excited when I see mainstream news coverage of Muslim women because I feel that they are *finally* starting to notice (Muslim women who choose to wear hijab) in a positive way.
At times the news media may get things a little “off” but as a journalist I know the challenges of putting together a story and getting all the information in on deadline.
If you look at it from an outsiders perspective, I think you can understand where they are coming from. But if you are someone who has been immersed in the Muslim community/culture it’s easy to become offended or read into things that weren’t meant to be that way.
And finally, the savvy hijab fashion bloggers are intertwined within the media industry. Do you really think this is spontaneous coverage? I’d bet you a lot of it is done with folks sending press releases or announcing a product launch and contacting the news media.. All it takes is one story, and then other papers and outlets run with it and try to put a fresh spin on it.
I realize I’m rambling, but I wanted to echo Jana’s sentiment.
What is with the word hijabista? :)
Assalamu’alaikum wr wb.
It’s nice to have this kind of discussion here, and I would like to share my opinion too, as I wrote on the comment’s section on Hijab Style Blog, with some addition:
I personally feel happy with the way media represent the muslimah style and fashion recently. Most of them appreciate our faith and our modest style.
But sometimes Media try to make ‘hot stories’ by creating contradictions or conflicts between something (eventhough this may have a positive value, but sometimes this is not right, and media should remember that they have responsibilities, ethics, and values to write stories/articles based on that).
In this case, Media, in some way, contributes to create a dichotomy between niqab/abaya wearer and tunic-jeans wearer, or could be between hijab-wearer muslim women and non-hijab muslim women… the perception that some people on the other side are more or less pious than the other. This kind of perception, shaped by the media, can make an uncomfortable situation for us, muslim women, that actually it shouldn’t like that.
Ideally, we, as muslims, have to bear in mind that all of us are trying our best to obey Allah SWT; to do what Allah wants us to do. All of us are just trying our best, in our way, to be close to the “Real Truth from Allah”. We all have the same intention. So, there is no need to get into dichotomy, trichotomy, etc, and to judge each other.
And about our clothes as a hijab, me as a hijab fashion blogger too, have a basis according to Qur’an:
Surah 7:26
O ye Children of Adam! We have bestowed raiment upon you to cover your shame, as well as to be an adornment to you. But the raiment of righteousness,- that is the best. Such are among the Signs of Allah, that they may receive admonition!
So clothing does not have to be drab. It is all right for both sexes to use clothing to enhance beauty as well as to cover nakedness. The most important thing is to be modest and righteous.
One more thing I’d like to add is in regard to the BBC’s question: “But doesn’t the showy nature of fashion contradict the essence of Hijab?”
In my opinion: No, it doesn’t contradict. I think based on the ayah above, it’s okay if we are showy about our clothes, as long as we’re NOT SHOWY about OUR BODY. (Allah knows best)
Fashion is showy. It shows creativities on clothes/outfits. So does ‘Muslim Fashion’, it is showy, it shows creativities on modest clothes/outfits (‘modest’ according to Islamic rules).
So, what is wrong with ‘Muslim Fashion’? Perhaps for some people, the reason why they want to deal with ‘Muslim Fashion’ is because they do want to fit in and be a part of mainstream society (nothing wrong with this as long as they keep follow Islamic rules in their life, for example: wearing hijab in western style; And people have their own reason why they want to fit in);
And for some other people, is because they want to create beautiful outfits (still within Islam’s rules of modesty) in their own style as their self expression. And this is all right too according to the ayah above.
[...] Islamic (because, you know, you can only be drab and boring in Islam), and the amazing ladies at Muslimah Media Watch have taken on this issue more brilliantly than I [...]